 |
 |
 |
 |
Check out PG setter Brian “Cuz” Hedrick polishing off his latest project in the Buttermilks! Great job Brian! We’re psyched to have super strong and talented setters like Brian on our setting crew, and can’t wait to see what he climbs next!
On December 3 and 4th, the PCI Pro Clinic Series came to San Francisco for the first time, with Kevin Jorgeson, Beth Rodden and Alex Johnson. Over 40 climbers took part and the results were unanimously positive:
“The PCI Clinic was amazing. I truly did solidify a number of techniques that I “thought I had down.” But really, I missing one or two pieces that the instructors were able to notice and correct. I will definitely be back.”
- Matthew Ulery
“The climbers that taught had the great combination of being world class climbers and very good teachers. Nicely done.”
- Edward Conover
“I feel like my son learned more in one day than in an entire year of weekly lessons. In an era were sports stars are sometimes the last people I would want my children looking up to, PCI truly defines the first word in their company name: Professional!”
- Andrew Halford
We are proud to announce that the PCI Pro Clinic Series is coming back to Planet Granite on February 11 and 12! The line up athletes is world class and are among PCI’s most experienced instructors: Beth Rodden, Steven Jeffery and Carlo Traversi. Together, these three athletes bring over 40 years of climbing experience, numerous national championship titles, and ascents up to v15 and 5.14+. Most importantly however, these three athletes are world class instructors bringing a brand new curriculum to San Francisco.
So, whether you attended the last event or are new to a PCI Clinic, you are guaranteed to learn something new. For the youth clinic, the athletes will be focusing on competition strategies and techniques for success. The event and scoring format for ABS Nationals just changed, so come learn what is different how to adapt your strategy for success. For adults, the athletes will be presenting a combination of physical technique and mental strategy stations to help you take your climbing the next level. If you attended the last clinic, all of this material is brand new.
Here is the schedule:
Saturday:
9am - 3pm Youth Clinic: http://bit.ly/wMHnZC
4pm - 6pm Semi-Private Lessons: http://bit.ly/yM10Bg
Sunday:
9am - 3pm Adult Clinic: http://bit.ly/ybN2bx
4pm - 6pm Semi-Private Lessons: http://bit.ly/yM10Bg
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to email Kevin Jorgeson at
kevin@proclimbers.com
If you haven’t seen this video - stop and watch it right now! Colin Delehanty, who worked at Planet Granite, and Sheldon Neill created this brilliant timelapse and it has gone viral! They took a moment to sit down with me and talk about their recent project.
How did you get into landscape photography and video?
Colin - “Mostly I was influenced by my friend Kris (http://krischeng.com). I brought a Canon Rebel XT with me on my first climbing trip to Bishop, CA and noticed that I was spending more time taking pictures instead of climbing.”
Sheldon - “I got into Landscape photography 9 months ago when I fell in love with a timelapse video called ‘The Mountain’ by TSO Photography. At that point I made it my goal to eventually shoot and produce a video of similar quality.”
What was the inspiration for Yosemite HD?
Colin -”In 2010 I hiked Half Dome at night just like Sheldon and I had for this video. It was so amazing I wanted to do it again but not alone and with better camera equipment. Sheldon’s video “Cottonwood Lakes to Mt. Whitney” (http://vimeo.com/27184383) inspired me to follow through on this goal. He convinced me to buy a motion timelapse dolly from Dynamic Perception (http://dynamicperception.com) so we could both capture motion timelapses during our trip.
Sheldon - “6 Months ago I decided to timelapse a hiking trip to the summit of Mt.Whitney–currently the tallest peak in the contiguous United States. It was shortly after that I decided I was going to do something similar, but on a more unique scale that the world can relate to. I wanted to work on the project with someone who shared a similar interest, and thats when I met Colin Delehanty.
How long did you spend shooting in Yosemite?
We spent around 19 days in Yosemite National park between September and November.
What were some of the challenges of getting these pristine shots?
We had to endure pretty interesting weather conditions, as well as long days with very little sleep; if any. We also had the challenge of lugging heavy gear to a few remote locations, and with the lack of sleep, this increased the demand on our bodies. As we reached November, weather conditions became cold, and really began to test our wills.
What’s next for Project Yosemite?
This last project was a lot of fun so you can expect us to try this again. Follow Sheldon and Colin at Project Yosemite (http://projectyose.com).
59 cams, a 15′ tall tipi, almost 250 pounds of gear in all. If you imagine what the inside of an outdoor store would look like after a mini-tornado steam rolled through, you’ll get a pretty good idea of what my parents’ living room looked like. We had all wrapped up our stateside projects or at least put them on hold and gathered here in Miami - our jumping off point for Chile.
The week or so we spent here was filled with errands and excitement. Patch the tipi, sort the climbing gear, reach out to contacts down south to let them know about our imminent arrival. We checked the weather down in Cochamo Valley - sunny and in the 70s during the day this week. Quite similar to the current clime in Miami, though that’s where the similarities end. Thoughts of dense sub-tropical rainforest covering vast mountainous terrain with 1000 meter granite domes bursting skyward kept us motivated as we sat in traffic, trying to pick up some last minute items. You’d be surprised (or maybe you wouldn’t) how difficult it is to find climbing chalk in Miami. Not many climbing stores in a city where the highest peak is the city trash-dump. We’re serious. You can fact-check that one.
Years of planning and its at our doorstep. Daniel has packed his bow and arrows and fly fishing pole and is dreaming of fresh meals provided by the rivers and off the and. Jakob can’t wait to roam the countryside and ask every gaucho he sees about horse packing and riding. And me? I’m staring at our new offset cams, shuddering at the thought of leading shallow, flared water cracks.
Excitement and fear, apprehension and anticipation - we’ve all boarded the emotional roller coaster. Next stop? 41 degrees south. Long days. Foreign land, food and language. Camp fires and creek water. Next update? Cochamo Valley.
To read more about their trip and how it all begin, check out their first blog here.
To learn more about our grants program - Planet GRANTS It! please visit our website.
If you don’t already know - Mike Abell is a busy man. He’s sent problems you’ve only dreamt about, he taught Paxti Usobiaga how to train and he’s handsome enough to steal your girlfriend, but he won’t. In between combing his hair and sculpting his abs he finds time to manage the newly revamped Belmont Planet Granite. Recently, he took some time out of his already hectic day to help us get to know the man behind the myth, just a little better.
So, start by telling us a how you got your start at PG.
I started by walking into PG Santa Clara when I was a young and impressionable 14 year old looking for work. I heard it was a legit summer job and the pay wasn’t bad. I was super psyched because the two summers before I went to summer camp there. That fall, I was asked to join the climbing team because I was crushing 5.10’s in Vans. After that, I was setting routes with my buddy Nick (current PG Sunnyvale staff), competing for the PG Team and digging life. After a few year hiatus I came back to PG in college to set routes at PG Sunnyvale and Belmont. Then Stephanie Ko Pound (then just Ko) got me a spot working the Front Desk and teaching classes in Sunnyvale.
While I was there, I taught everything - BRC, 101, Bouldering 101, Lead, co-wrote the curriculum for Power & Endurance with assistant head setter, Art; all while taking a full load at SCU and setting at other Planet Granite gyms. I like being busy. In that same time, I became the head coach for the Sunnyvale climbing team. In a short year, I made helmet wearing Summer Camp kids into climbing MUTANTS. Then, I became Assistant Manager in Sunnyvale a year ago, learned from the best, Stephanie Ko Pound, and also allowed her to take a month off for her honeymoon. While I was Assistant Manager, I was also the Youth Programs Coordinator, Head Coach, and teaching Power &Endurance Classes. Did I mention that I like being busy?
You’re a busy man is what you’re saying. Tell us something about who has helped you out in your own climbing. What are some high points for you in the climbing game?
Well, I owe it all to the PG climbing team. Honestly, also the old school PG crew. Guys like Jeremy and Joel - two long standing icons in the Sunnyvale bouldering scene - have shown me how to pinch ridiculously hard. My OG (that’s original gangsta’ for us older generations) coach Dave Geissberger really showed me how to finesse may way around tough sequences and has truly influenced my tough, yet understanding coaching style.
As far as highlights - honestly, I’ve climbed some hard boulders in my day, but really the highlights have been those amazing climbing trip moments over the years like drinking a Tecate tall can on the top of the Eureka Sand Dunes or finding the biggest Chinese Buffet ever in El Paso Texas. I’m going to get sappy, but a huge highlight has been seeing my kids on the PG Sunnyvale climbing team start off as little v1 projecting, unfocused youth and turn into mature, smart, and buff young individuals.
Are there any trips on the horizon?
I plan on hitting up Bishop and Yosemite to boulder a bit during the prime spring temps. Maybe I might dip my fingers in some Jailhouse sport climbing? Other than that I really need to get out to South Africa one of these days. I hear there are crimp lock-offs for days.
There are indeed a few crimpers down there. So, now to the part everyone is waiting for - how do you crush so hard in jeans so tight?
I eat a lot of pizza and drink a lot of beer. My motto is - climb harder and try less. Just kidding! 
But currently I’m psyched on core training, weighted pull-ups, weight lifting and TRX at PG Belmont. Also the adjustable system boards in SV and BL have helped immensely with isolating my weaknesses. Ultimately, I find the more I pull on real rock the stronger I get. As for the skinny jeans: I climb way better when I feel that I look good while doing it. That is why I strive to lock everything off and make it look effortless. I probably could climb harder if I got over this narcissism of mine, but I just enjoy it so much!
I’m sure the team parents are going to love your dieting recommendations. Why don’t you explain what the deal is with all the well-groomed climbers in the Flame and Flash tank tops?
I started Flame and Flash two years ago because I thought it was pretty lame that the Bay Area - which has both a strong climbing community and LGBT community - didn’t have an LGBT climbing community. The idea really sparked when I met up with another LBGT climbing group called Homoclimbtastic in the New River Gorge, and I thought, “This NEEDS to come to the Bay.”
We host bi-monthly climbing sessions around Bay Area gyms where LGBT climbers can meet up and find new climbing partners. Flame and Flash also hosts annual outdoor trips to areas like Bishop, Yosemite, Mammoth, and this year Red Rocks. As a group we also try to recruit members of the LGBT community to get out of the bars and clubs and come climbing. Check us out on Facebook!
When it first started we were about 15 guys and gals strong. Now our regular meet ups bring about 15-25 people. Our outdoor trips gather about 40-50 people, and our first fundraiser ever brought about 40 people.
Now that you’re the proverbial “man” at Belmont, what can we expect from the gym?
I want to utilize the energy and enthusiasm from PG Belmont staff to make PG Belmont the awesome climbing and hang out facility that it can be. I want to keep Belmont unique to its roots, like those I remember when I came to visit the gym when I was 15. It’s a solid training facility with an adjustable system board, a tread wall, full weight area and campus board. It’s also got an awesome community which really meets the PG Vibe that all our gyms strive for. It really feels like you’re walking into a friend’s house when walking into PG Belmont. You can expect me to be hyping up and promoting these two key points that make PG Belmont what it is. The staff here is psyched and wants to do so much with the gym. All I can ask for is enthusiasm for all my ridiculous ideas for the gym and they’ve more than provided that support. Also my Assistant Manager, Brett, is awesome - he does everything for me!
Finish us off with a look into what makes Mike Abell tick.
I love seeing a kid struggle through a crux, but figure it out and send. I love keeping things real but knowing when keeping it real just ain’t good enough. I’m psyched on keeping those around me psyched on whatever task is at hand. I keep things light-hearted. I exhaust every scenario until I find the one that’s least exhausted and run with it. I love, love, love starting what should be a simple task and making it slightly epic (ask Brett.)
Mike is the new manager at PG Belmont. If any further advice is needed regarding, pizza, beer, training, or if the bathroom is simply out of paper towels - you know where to find him.
The Friction Series is our Spring Roped Climbing comp held at each of our locations with an Onsight Final to conclude the events.
COMP SCHEDULE
Friday February 3rd - PG Belmont
Friday March 2nd - PG San Francisco
Friday April 6th - PG Sunnyvale + Onsight Series Finals!*
CATEGORIES
Comps are open to people of all ages and categories (for both men and women)are as follows:
Recreational: up to 5.10b
Advanced: 5.10c-5.11c
Open (lead only): 5.11d and higher.
ONSIGHT SERIES FINALS
The top 3 scores of the entire comp will be invited to pariticpate in our Onsight Series Final at PG Sunnyvale! This is not cumulative scoring, so if your score at PG Belmont beats out the top scores from PG Sunnyvale and PG San Francisco, you’ll be invited! Witness the best climbers duke it out high above on ropes in an action packed, breath holding event! Even better - the routes will be left up after the comp so you can test your skills against the best.
First Place - $150 cash!
Second Place - $100
Third Place - $50
RAFFLE FOR PRIZES PLUS FOOD AND BEER!
A raffle will be held to auction off amazing gear by our awesome sponsors. We’ll have some yummy grub, great beer and of course Tshirts designed by our own Ivan Cua. There’s no other place to be on Friday night!
FREE for members
$15 for non-members
No pre-registration necessary!
For ongoing information, to check scores and see photos from this comp (as they occur), check out our competitions page!
Aliens have landed in Planet Granite and will soon be invading a crack near you. CCH Alien Cams, now made by Fixe Hardware, are finally here.
These are probably the most sought after cams ever and we are one of the first shops to carry them. Super Topo editor Chris McNamara calls Aliens his, “favorite cam for big walls and climbs where you have tight and shallow placements. They find their way into more placements than almost any other small cam.” So far we have the blue through red sizes and look forward to carrying the Alien Hybrids as soon as they are produced.
As always, PG members take 10% off!
Start your New Year’s Resolution right with special and new programming hosted at Planet Granite Belmont.
SPECIAL HOLIDAY FITNESS CLASSES THIS WEEKEND!
Belmont’s own Abs and Core and Circuit Training instructor Harriett is hosting Special Holiday Fitness classes this weekend only!
- Rock ‘n’ Core New Year’s Eve Saturday January 30th at 10am.
- ABSolution & ATONEment 12:15p.m. New Year’s Day Sunday 12:15 p.m.
Can’t make it this weekend? No worries, check out Harriett’s normally scheduled weekday classes:
- Abs and Core Tuesdays and Thursdays at 7:30pm
- Circuit Training Monday, Wednesday, & Friday at 9am
TRX IS COMING TO PG BELMONT!
It’s official! TRX is coming to Planet Granite Belmont stating next week!
Mondays at 6:30pm with Chris
Wednesdays at 6:30pm with Pam
Every first Wednesday 6:30pm is TRX Fundamentals with Lauren!
TRX Fundamentals or prior TRX experience is required before signing up for normally scheduled TRX classes.
Cost:*
$10 per a session if pre-registered 2-days in advance
$15 for late registration or drop-in
*non-members must pay day pass to enter facility
Enjoy the day off! We’ll see you bright and early tomorrow morning!
2011 has been a busy year for the American Safe Climbing Association! Largely responsible for most of the rebolting efforts on the West Coast and spreading quickly to international waters, the ASCA is a non-profit started by SuperTopo’s Chris McNamara as a volunteer run organization dedicated to keeping our local crags up to date.
Earlier this year, with our $1/Member/Month Giving Program, Planet Granite pledged to match up to $10,000 raised during a huge fundraiser held at our San Francisco location. With over 300 in attendance, guest speakers Alex Honnold and Chris McNamara, the climbing community pitched in and together, we raised over $30,000!!!
Supertopo just posted a forum highlighting how busy the ASCA has been this year. In just 2011 alone, over 1,300 bolts were replaced across the country and Thailand! Way to go ASCA rebolting volunteers! Each time you come across a brand new ASCA bolt, be thankful for the ASCA and be sure to send a few dollars their way.
—-
the forum post (click the LINK for thread following!)
Hi Forum, Here is an update on some of what the American Safe Climbing Assn was up to in 2011 from Director Greg Barnes. Please consider the ASCA for you end of year donation by clicking here. Also, please follow us on facebook
C
ASCA replacement in the US
ASCA-supported volunteers replaced hundreds of bolts all around the US in 2011, including several hundred bolts replaced by elbow-wrecking hand drilling in granite! From Red Rocks to Yosemite to Rifle to Smith Rocks to dozens of other crags, and from the major areas of the West to various smaller crags in the Carolinas, Alaska, Wyoming, Oregon, Washington, and of course California and Colorado. All of this is only possible through incredible volunteer efforts to install top quality stainless steel bolts funded entirely by climber donations!
Huge Fundraiser by Planet Granite
The ASCA fundraiser at Planet Granite was a huge success! Headline speaker Alex Honnold helped bring in about 300 people. We far exceeded our goal of $20,000… We raised $30395.85!! This was largely due to the very generous match by Planet Granite Gives Back of $10,000: for every member, $1 is donated per month to climbing, community and the environment.
ASCA goes international
The incredible failure rate of bolts in southern Thailand has been a widely recognized problem for the past decade - every type of stainless steel bolt corrodes and breaks rapidly. In past years the ASCA has assisted with ordering titanium bolts, but this year the ASCA directly supported substantial replacement in southern Thailand. In 2011 nearly 400 bolts were replaced with titanium glue-ins with ASCA support! While outside of the US, a substantial number of Americans climb in southern Thailand, most of the routes were established by Americans, and the area needs help from climbers all around the world in order to prevent catastrophic bolt failures.
ASCA-supported replacement in 2011
370+ in Thailand
300+ in Yosemite Valley
150+ in Red Rocks
100+ in Grand Junction area (Unaweep, Escalante, CO Nat’l Mon.)
80+ in Rifle
50+ in Tuolumne
50+ in Bishop area (Pine Creek, Alabama Hills anchors)
50+ in Needles & southern Sierra
45 in South Carolina (Table Rock State Park)
40+ in South Platte
40+ in Joshua Tree
20 in North Carolina (Rumbling Bald, Whitesides)
Additional areas include the Flatirons, Smith Rock, Shelf Road, Mt. Erie, Owens River Gorge, Menagerie Wilderness, Southern Yosemite, Seward Highway, Hartman Rocks, Tongue River Canyon, Parker Bluff, and others.
