PLANET GRANITE BLOG

Total donated $20,000; total raised $46,000+: 

In October, Planet Granite partnered with the American Safe Climbing Association to raise money to replace bad bolts around the country. Planet Granite has plenty of staff, friends, members, and guests who climb outside and it is one of our main priorities to make sure that those of us who climb outside are using bolts that won’t just come out with a little tug.

How do you know when to trust the gear on which your life depends?

The ASCA gives money to local climbing organizations to help with their efforts to rebolt areas or, through the help of volunteers, the ASCA rebolts areas itself. One of the local California crags that many of us have climbed at is Pinnacles and through the efforts of the Friends of Pinnacles rebolting team, they have replaced quite a few sketchy bolts.

Bruce Hildenbrand is the president of Friends of Pinnacles and has quite a few stories to tell about the rebolting efforts at Pinnacles that get their bolts from the ASCA and with other climbing organizations like the Access Fund.

Could we down climb if it got too steep to put in bolts, or just run it to where there might be a bolting stance? Was the indented black streak rock good or bad, or good AND bad? We had minimal experience with water streaks at Pinnacles to know one way or another. Such thoughts made our stomachs churn as Chris Vandiver and I walked along the base of the wall scanning each water streak for its climbing potential. Read more….

Another area (one of many) that you will see ASCA bolts is Castle Rock. Justin Vitcov, one of Planet Granite’s own, talks about his experience helping rebolt on the Waterfall Route, a popular climbing area in Castle Rock.

How do you know when to trust the gear on which your life depends? Yesterday, with the help of the @bayareaclimberscoalition fixed anchor replacement team, tools from the Access Fund, gear from the ASCA and financial support from Planet Granite, we pulled this anchor and others from classic Waterfall Route. We all thought it was ok looking, but it came out with minimal effort. Tiny, split-shaft, buttonheads just aren’t meant to be placed in soft sandstone. There’s a glue-in bolt in it’s place now, which makes me much more comfortable with the idea of whipping all over the cruxy, direct start. This was, after all, the first and only bolt within 30 feet of the ground. Big thanks to folk like @swifteddieg, @jimthornburg and Elmar for leading the charge to make anchor replacement happen throughout the Bay Area. I only get to join occasionally, but these guys are regularly putting in lots of time and effort to make our local crags better for all of us. 

 

Thank you to everyone who donated to the ASCA and helped us meet our match to this awesome group!