By: Kimberly Adkins
The first comp of Friction Series 2017 is over and it was a great time! Read on for pictures, scores and highlights!Read more...
Planet Granite Belmont is located in the old Belmont Theater located on El Camino Real between Ralston and Hillsdale. Parking can be found on 43rd Ave., just north of the gym.
Click on the location point on the map below for directions.
By: Kimberly Adkins
This is a guest post by AJ Dexter, climbing photographer and author of We Are: Smith Rock, a community collaboration and passion-driven project on Smith Rock. We offered AJ a spot to talk about why he put together this project and what it means to him personally. We are pretty psyched about this book too - so many of our community experience great things at Smith Rock; plus, all proceeds from the book go to the Access Fund who works diligently on keeping our outdoor climbing areas open for us to enjoy. Interested in supporting the project? Check out the website, join the mailing list, share it with others and pick up a copy of the book!
Originally, "We Are: Smith Rock" was a way to get the climbing photos I shot at Smith Rock out there to the world but the book took on a life of its own. It’s not really about the photos anymore, or about me. The book is about Smith Rock but more importantly, our climbing community:
"It was during a trip here, standing atop the summit that inspiration hit me. I don’t know why, or what about it spoke to me, but I looked over the park and saw it in a new way. I truly saw the varied terrain and rock, the views, the many experiences made here. Smith Rock offers something for every climber, if you need a beating it can deliver. If you need a confidence boost... you got it. Short climbs, long climbs, trad climbs, sport climbs. Smith Rock inspires adventure and in that moment alone on the summit I realized I needed to give something back.
Naturally, I wanted to create something photographic, but the more I thought about it the more I realized that it deserved a lot more than just me. If I truly wanted to share the park and do something powerful I needed others too. I needed to share the story of Smith Rock, not just the story of my experience there.
The result of that idea is this book. It has evolved naturally and entirely through the support of the climbing community. Every image, word, and page was created by a climber because of the shared belief that it could inspire others and help protect areas that we all seek to find ourselves."
There are a lot of really amazing climbers who contributed their stories about climbing at Smith Rock. Here are two of my favorite:
Brooke Sandhal (Metolius): "Smith Rock can’t be adequately described by words or image – it must be experienced in person...with all ones senses, the smell of sage in the desert air, the beauty of a raging sunset over Asterisk Pass, feeling the texture of Dzthe heinous clingdz (yes, the route is named after a single painful crimp edge) with your own worn finger tips, sharing beta with a group of folks from a far away country, the pain of depumping while you lower off some Smith tweakfest, it all has to be experienced first hand! One word: Go!"
Paige Claassen: "People describe Smith as very technical, even slabby. It does require very precise technique, but also significant power. Believe it or not, I always feel I boulder best after a trip to Smith. The climbing requires immense body tension, because if you aren’t in close to the wall, you’re falling off. My core will be sore every single day from climbing at Smith, whereas when you’re upside down in a cave you can let your body sag and relax to rest. At Smith, it’s pretty on from the bottom to the top."
This is the first book I'd ever printed or published. So I’ve had to learn a lot along the way:
And that was it! We Are: Smith Rock was born! I hope you’ve gotten a sense of the project and that it inspires you to climb more and help protect the places we have an impact on!
Check out the website at www.wearesmithrock.com, sign up for the newsletter for updates, buy a book at your local Planet Granite or on the site, and share it with your friends on social media.Read more...
By: Kimberly Adkins
Early this month, our PG climbing teams attended USA Climbing’s Bouldering Divisionals and in hopes of qualifying for nationals. And they rocked it. 21 of our climbing team kids made top 10 in their category and 9 have been invited to nationals!
By: Kimberly Adkins
What is Passport to Fitness? Basically, take fitness and yoga classes and win prizes. It is as simple as that. Well - maybe not that simple; there are some things you should know:
Similar to a travel passport, Passport to Fitness has a goal of giving you new experiences. Find a class or discipline that you love so you can find your long-term motivation and continue to live an active and healthy lifestyle.
Starting Feb. 1st grab a Passport to Fitness Postcard from your gym's front desk staff. Pick classes from the card that you would like to try or that you already know you love and go participate! Get your instructor to sign off on the class you took and then pick the next class you want to try! Don't worry if you start late - classes are offered at least once a week so even if you get started a bit later, you still have plenty of time to get raffle tickets!
For each row that you completely fill out (take all three classes on that row), you will get one raffle ticket; two rows = two raffle tickets (one for each row), etc. Get a bonus if you go to 12 classes and fill out the card completely! For a fully filled out card, you get double the chances of winning awesome prizes! So to break it down:
Turn in your card with your name and email (we need your email to notify you if you win) clearly legible by closing on Mar. 6th. Once we have everyone's card, we will draw for winners on Mar. 10th. Check PG social media or your email on the 10th to see if you won! Once your name has been announced, head to the gym where your name was announced and pick up your prize!
Bay Area: In the Bay, we have none other than prAna sponsoring this event. They have generously donated tops, bottoms (including Mojo shorts!), yoga mats, and accessories for our winners! Each gym has their own prizes so there are plenty of chances to win!
Portland: Portland is being sponsored by North Lake Physical Therapy. All participants in Portland's Passport to Fitness are eligible for a free musculoskeletal examination (more information below). For the PDX raffle, you can win PG swag, a session with a personal trainer, or gift cards!
To redeem your free PDX musculoskeletal exam: Meet with North Lakes’ Vince Blaney, MSPT when he is in the gym every Monday after our 5:30pm F10 class. If you miss him, you can schedule an appointment for later, just be sure to bring in your passport card! If you’re unable to receive your evaluation during the month of February, you’ll receive a voucher for one free musculoskeletal evaluation when you turn your Passport to Fitness card in at the end of the month!
North Lake Physical Therapy
1622 NW 15th Ave
Portland, OR 97209
Phone: (503) 222-4640
By: Kimberly Adkins
If you follow the American Alpine Club on Instagram (@americanalpine), you might get a weird sensation that you recognize the pictures that you see next week. There is a reason for that – if you have ever bouldered at PG Sunnyvale, you are probably familiar with where they were taken!
About a year ago, PG Sunnyvale was approached by member Andrea Laue about doing a series on our youth climbing team and we were more than happy to help out! Since then, Andrea has been collaborating with the coaches and climbers to learn more about these amazing athletes. Our teams are so passionate; we are stoked that people get a peek into how much work they put into it.
Starting January 8, Andrea (on Instagram as @andrealaue) will be taking over the American Alpine Club’s Instagram and showcasing her series on Youth Climbers, many of whom she worked with at PG Sunnyvale. The series will build a narrative around individual climbers and what it is like to be a competitive youth climber.
Can you give a little bit of background on yourself and this series?
I'm a documentary photographer by vocation and a climber, backpacker, snowshoer, and general outdoor enthusiast by avocation. Except for a brief stint in Seattle, I've lived in the SF Bay Area for 10+ years, and the Eastern Sierra feels like home to me. My husband Brian and I climb moderate alpine trad routes and backpack as much as possible. The Hulk is our big goal for 2017!
For this series: Put most simply, I wondered what it was like to be on a climbing team as a youth. Last year, I photographed several "open" comps at Bay Area gyms. The youth competitors impressed me most at those events. I was very active in youth team sports, and that experience had a big influence on me. Last winter, I approached Planet Granite’s Team about doing a documentary project about a season as a youth climber and the gym, athletes, and parents welcomed me into the community.
What are you hoping to show in your takeover for AAC?
There's so much more to the comps than the climbs themselves. Athletes spend minutes to hours in isolation before they climb. Between climbs they are led around the gym with their backs to the walls and faces to the crowd. They sit, waiting their turn, while the spectators cheer and gasp in reaction to other performances. All the while, the clock runs, timing their efforts and their breaks. Then they are called. They turn toward the wall, and they climb on command.
It's intense. It's easy to see the strength in the limbs of these kids, but the core of their strength lies in their minds and in their hearts. It's impressive.
What have you enjoyed most about your work in this series?
Getting to know the athletes. At first I was simply amazed by how good they are. Now I'm impressed by the conversations I have with them. I admire how they support one another, regardless of relative skill.
Also, they crack me up!
Photo Credit: Andrea LaueRead more...
By: Kimberly Adkins
Most climbers have a bit of a gear nerd streak – embarking on quests to find our holy grail of climbing shoes, chalk, rope, carabiners, clothes – basically, anything and everything we use when we climb. Our staff is no different; we might even have some of the largest gear lovers out there! We LOVE to share our knowledge, help out new climbers, and opine about what gear we think is best.
Gear is very personal and there are so many good brands and products on the market that choosing gear can be a long process. Our gym shops are stocked with brands and products that we have tested and that we believe in but even though we have a lot of brands, there is not a one size fits all solution. Test things out, talk to our staff about your needs, and check out our What’s In Your Bag videos where our staff shows you what they use when they climb.