We care about preserving access to climbing areas near and far. If you climb outside, here are some links to help keep you abreast of access issues. As always, before climbing, seek qualified instruction with a professional guide, review the local guidebook or seek information from a local gear shop. Help us keep access to our crags open forever!
Castle Rock and Goat Rock, Bay Area, CA
Both Castle Rock and Goat Rock are located in Castle Rock State Park and are popular areas for both route climbing and bouldering as well as groups and classes which means this area can get busy. Be aware of the park’s rules and regulations both in general and as they relate to climbing. The park brochure is a good resource for this and can be found here.
Please do not climb here within 2-3 days after it rains. No dogs allowed.
Tahoe/Donner Summit Area, CA (bouldering)
White Lines Access Route (from Tahoe Bouldering Guides)
White Lines is on private property. Luckily the owner understands the recreational and historical value of this boulder and he has made an official deal through the Access Fund to allow climbing on his land. One of his biggest requests is that all climbers stay on the new trail when going to White lines. The trail weaves thought the talus, staying behind boulders and going through notches as to create the least visual impact to the land owner. Trail starts from the SOUTH end of standard Roadcut parking area where the guardrail ends. If you look down the hill from there you will clearly see trail markers and signs installed. Please ONLY use this trail when approaching and read the signs along the way which state your expected code of conduct when visiting his land. Do not deviate from the trail. It goes right by all the other boulders on the way down (Lion Heart, Powerline, Ect..) so there is no need to wander. The idea is: Stay on the trail which is mainly out of sight of his house, don’t be loud when you climb and he may never even know you where there. Keep dogs leashed and don’t let them wander onto his land. If everyone plays their cards right, we should be abe to maintain access. Link for map and more info.
Soda Springs Bouldering (from Tahoe Bouldering Guides) – CLOSED!
Soda Springs boulders and all the boulders at Upper Soda Springs are on private land. The owners of the land are requesting that climbers do not come there to climb, so the area is closed. If you are found on the land by the owners, you will be treated as a trespasser. The best thing the climbing community can do for now is respect the land owner’s wishes and stay off their land. In summary, The Soda Springs boulders are now closed to climbing.
The Grotto/Gold Wall, Sonora CA
Climbers have been visiting the Gold Wall for over a decade and have stewarded the area, kept a low profile and avoided publication of route information to keep crowds to a minimum. However, in the spring of 2015, the Gold Wall landowner reached out to the climbing community and expressed liability concerns after hearing excessive yelling from climbers at the cliff. Access Fund and local climbers immediately set up a site visit with the landowner.
After a series of conversations, it’s clear that the landowner recognizes the recreational value of the cliff and he has no immediate plans to close the area. But he does have some very specific and reasonable requests for visiting climbers, including:
- No music and keep all noise to a minimum
- Respect other users and consider climbing elsewhere to avoid overcrowding
- No fires – high fire danger area
- No overnight use
- No littering – pack in, pack out.
Jailhouse, Sonora CA
The Access Fund secured Jailhouse Rock with the help of Planet Granite’s Unlock Jailhouse Fundraiser. PG donated $10,000 as a match and helped raise over $13,000, totaling $23,000 towards keeping Jailhouse open.
Jailhouse remains open with an active local community. If you would like to climb there, please read this page for rules and regulations.
Drilling protection bolts for climbing is permitted in Yosemite as long as it is done by hand. Motorized power drills are prohibited. The National Park Service does not inspect, maintain, or repair bolts and other climbing equipment anywhere in the park. Gardening’ (the name given to removing plant life from cracks) is not allowed in Yosemite.
Information via: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/bolting.htm
Falcon closures usually happen from the Spring until the late Summer.
The Peregrine Falcon is a fully protected species in California and a special status species in Yosemite National Park due to its sensitivity to disturbance during the nesting season. To protect this species, the Superintendent of Yosemite National Park is designating Peregrine Falcon chicks have fledged and dispersed from those areas in 2016….Closures go into effect on March 1 and remain in effect until July 15. For current info, please visit the website.
Information via: http://www.climbingyosemite.com/services/closures/
Pinnacles National Park offers a variety of climbing including top roping and multi-pitch routes. Before you head out to climb there, make sure you read up on the park FAQs and check for raptor closures. The Friends of Pinnacles website also provides some detailed information about what specific areas are closed or open.
Carver Bridge Cliff, Carver, OR
Carver is a small, privately owned located south and east of Portland on highway 224. Nestled in the forest behind the Stone Cliff Inn, the crag offers bouldering and bolted sport and mixed sport/trad climbs. The Carver Climbing Club has partnered with the Rosenbaum family since 1991 to provide access for climbers to the area but requires all climbers to first register for permission before climbing at this area to ensure continued accessibility.
To climb and boulder in the area, all participants must be a member of the Carver Climbing Club and be 18 years or older. To register for membership:
- Go to https://join.carverclimbingclub.org/
- Submit your contact information
- Complete the Carver waiver and pay a one-time fee of $8 online
- Bring a printed copy of your signed waiver and photo ID to Planet Granite PDX or one of the other partner gyms to get your official Carver Club member card
You must have photo ID and your Carver Club member card at all times while climbing in the park. All members should familiarize themselves with the rules of access specific to Carver, available here: http://carverclimbingclub.org/#/rules. Please be respectful of these rules. Access to privately owned crags is not a right and we need to continue to respect the families who are generous enough to open their properties to our climbing community to ensure future access to these areas.
Madrone Wall, Damascus, OR
OPEN! – Twenty years ago, the Madrone Wall was closed to outdoor recreation and was in danger of becoming a quarry site. Thanks to the efforts of the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee (MWPC), the quarry was never built, and the committee has worked diligently to preserve the park. Thanks to volunteer efforts directed by the MWPC, in October of 2017, the area reopened to all climbing!
For further information, visit https://www.clackamas.us/parks/madronewall.html.