PLANET GRANITE BLOG

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PGSF members enjoy the new overhanging bouldering wall.

After weeks of mysterious noises and giant tarps, PG San Francisco has proudly unveiled steep new climbing terrain, for both roped climbers and boulderers, and it’s a thrill for routesetters and climbers alike.

While the back bouldering wall along the walk to PGSF’s bouldering ramp is getting plenty of attention, our two new roped walls should not be overlooked.

The Training Wall, a gently overhung 35-foot panel, doesn’t appear too tough, but don’t underestimate it. Since the wall has a constant angle, it will deliver an endurance burn deep in your forearms. The opposite side is our most technical wall, coming in at just slightly off-vertical – so expect to find fun balance-y routes! Adding nine new lead anchors, these two new walls provide plenty of new terrain to challenge any roped climber.

Also in that corner of the San Francisco gym is a new bouldering wall for kids, with a clear view of Crissy Field through a transparent frame.

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At left, new overhanging roped terrain in SF. To the right, the kids bouldering wall.

Now, about that new bouldering wall.  One morning last week, a crew made up of PG members Kim, Ben, Jason and PGSF coach Long were all smiles as they took turns climbing the steep, tall new bouldering wall that’s sprung up beside the ramp.

“It’s pretty sweet,” said Kim, a PGSF member, contemplating the upward sweep of the wall. “For someone who’s short, it’s a mental wall for me, throwing a move to the top.  A move that for other people is static, for me might be a dyno. It pushes me out of my comfort zone.”

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“It’s hard!” said Ben. “The size, and the openness of it—I don’t get that experience outside, or at any other Bay Area gym.  I like the openness.”

“With the openness of it, the setters can get super creative going left and right,” Jason said, contemplating a tough problem with a tough-to-stick kidney-shaped sloper-jug.

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“Super creative” is the perfect description for what the wall offers to setters, according to San Francisco Assistant Head Setter Mick Petts.

“A prow, even if it’s very striking, from a setter’s perspective can be limiting,” Petts said. “But a minimalist wall without angle change, allows you to use volumes and it offers the setter a lot more scope in their creativity.”

“It’s a blank canvas, you can alter it any way you like.  With this wall, with the use of volumes, you’re not limited in any way.”

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Another important aspect of the new wall is its sweeping width, Petts said.

“You have a panel that’s 15 to 20 feet wide that allows for movement side to side.”

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Similar qualities can be found on the new roped climbing wall, to the right of the gym after you enter via the front desk area and gear shop.

The new bouldering wall will get be showcased in the first week of April when new problems are set for Bouldering League on Thursday. At first, that will mean sparse setting, but after Bouldering League additional problems will be set on the wall.

So if you haven’t been to the Presidio recently, here’s your reason! Come on down to San Francisco to check out the super steep, super fun, super creative walls.

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