Onsight Series Final at PG Sunnyvale - Sat. May 6th! Planet Granite's Friction Series - Presented by PetzlWritten by Kimberly Adkins
The last and final competition in our Friction Series is coming up! These awesome fun-filled community events pack-in awesome climbing, great community, super cool vendors plus food, beer and prizes!
Sunnyvale Friction Series + Onsight Series Final is Saturday, May 6th and registration opens at 10am!
Sunnyvale holds the final comp on May, 6th which includes the Onsight Series Finals!
If you've enjoyed our onsight finals at each gym, then you're in for a real treat at PG Sunnyvale! Not only are we hosting a final, but it's our series final, meaning folks have had to qualify at previous comps in order to compete! So grab a beer and kick back and watch the strongest of our community compete for some cash prizes!
Meet Jaqui! She is one of the Yoga Instructors at Planet Granite San Francisco and recently took on a new Sunday class!
Who are you? What do you teach at Planet Granite?
My name is Jacqui Rowley and I teach an action based, alignment focused, slow burn yoga class [Vinyasa].
What benefits can Vinyasa lead to if done routinely?
You'll learn the correct action and alignment to keep your body safe and to advance your practice.
What experience should a yogi have before coming to your class for the first time?
No experience needed! Just show up with a sense of humor and realistic expectations.
Do you have a favorite pose or stretch?
I don't have a favorite pose? They are all interesting in their own way and some days certain shapes feel better than others.
Interested in learning more? Check out Jacqui’s Vinyasa class every Tuesday/Thursday @ 4:30pm and Sundays @ 9:30am!
We are overwhelmed in a sea of stoke! San Francisco’s Friction Series 2017 is one for the record books. With piles of prize goodies, 300 t-shirts given out, an entire assembly line of food, and nearly 500 attendees, Friction Series was literally jam-packed this year. The music was bumpin’ and the walls were thumpin’ with an intense display of competition and comradery.
We loved seeing all of your beautiful faces.
And of course, your try-hard faces too!
Not to mention, we had a bunch of local vendors come out to join the festivities, donate prizes, and hand out treats to our crowd. A huge thank you to the rad guys and gals that kept us pumped during the comp!
With an incredible team of setters, we were able to have some super rad climbs that had competitors psyched all day long. We’ve got mad love for our incredibly talented setting team. If you see them around, be sure to thank a setter for your favorite climbs.
You all crushed it, and we can’t help but brag about our awesome community. Without such a rockin’ family, such as yourself, we wouldn’t have been able to make this event possible. We can’t thank you all enough for coming out!
And now for the moment you’ve all been waiting for: the results are in!
Women's Onsight Results
Men's Onsight Results
JACOB A SCHARFMAN
Written by Ashley Vail, SF Marketing Coordinator.
With Belmont's Friction comp done and a few weeks passed, it is time to start looking forward to the next comp at PG San Francisco! We'll have routes for everyone, food, snacks and Fort Point Beer Co., local sponsors, and a raffle full of awesome prizes!
San Francisco Friction Series is Saturday, Mar. 25, 2017 and registration opens at 10am!
After San Francisco, Sunnyvale holds the final comp on May, 6th which includes the Series Finals where the top 5 climbers from all the events compete for a cash purse!
New this year – Each Gym will host an Onsight Final! Cheer on the top climbers (or compete yourself!) as they battle for the top spot at their gym and a chance to win a cash purse in Sunnyvale where we’ll be hosting the Series Final. Plus, we’re crowning a Series Champion based on points across all three comps!
This is a guest post by AJ Dexter, climbing photographer and author of We Are: Smith Rock, a community collaboration and passion-driven project on Smith Rock. We offered AJ a spot to talk about why he put together this project and what it means to him personally. We are pretty psyched about this book too - so many of our community experience great things at Smith Rock; plus, all proceeds from the book go to the Access Fund who works diligently on keeping our outdoor climbing areas open for us to enjoy. Interested in supporting the project? Check out the website, join the mailing list, share it with others and pick up a copy of the book!
What is this all about?
Originally, "We Are: Smith Rock" was a way to get the climbing photos I shot at Smith Rock out there to the world but the book took on a life of its own. It’s not really about the photos anymore, or about me. The book is about Smith Rock but more importantly, our climbing community:
- All profits go directly to the Access Fund who include conservation tips for protecting our crags in the book
- The stunning photos in the book are all from notable and up and coming photographers and are shot at Smith Rock
- The writing, photography, layout and design were all crafted by climbers
- It’s not just a photo book. Read stories from big name climbers you’ll recognize and some that you might not.
My Inspiration: The Forward of We Are: Smith Rpck
"It was during a trip here, standing atop the summit that inspiration hit me. I don’t know why, or what about it spoke to me, but I looked over the park and saw it in a new way. I truly saw the varied terrain and rock, the views, the many experiences made here. Smith Rock offers something for every climber, if you need a beating it can deliver. If you need a confidence boost... you got it. Short climbs, long climbs, trad climbs, sport climbs. Smith Rock inspires adventure and in that moment alone on the summit I realized I needed to give something back.
Naturally, I wanted to create something photographic, but the more I thought about it the more I realized that it deserved a lot more than just me. If I truly wanted to share the park and do something powerful I needed others too. I needed to share the story of Smith Rock, not just the story of my experience there.
The result of that idea is this book. It has evolved naturally and entirely through the support of the climbing community. Every image, word, and page was created by a climber because of the shared belief that it could inspire others and help protect areas that we all seek to find ourselves."
There are a lot of really amazing climbers who contributed their stories about climbing at Smith Rock. Here are two of my favorite:
Brooke Sandhal (Metolius): "Smith Rock can’t be adequately described by words or image – it must be experienced in person...with all ones senses, the smell of sage in the desert air, the beauty of a raging sunset over Asterisk Pass, feeling the texture of Dzthe heinous clingdz (yes, the route is named after a single painful crimp edge) with your own worn finger tips, sharing beta with a group of folks from a far away country, the pain of depumping while you lower off some Smith tweakfest, it all has to be experienced first hand! One word: Go!"
Paige Claassen: "People describe Smith as very technical, even slabby. It does require very precise technique, but also significant power. Believe it or not, I always feel I boulder best after a trip to Smith. The climbing requires immense body tension, because if you aren’t in close to the wall, you’re falling off. My core will be sore every single day from climbing at Smith, whereas when you’re upside down in a cave you can let your body sag and relax to rest. At Smith, it’s pretty on from the bottom to the top."
Behind the Scenes
This is the first book I'd ever printed or published. So I’ve had to learn a lot along the way:
To Self Publish or Try a Book Publisher:
Most books come from conventional book publishers (think Mountaineers Books, or Falcon Guides) while some are self published. When I started I really didn’t know whether this book would be successful or even get off the ground so that informed my path. Using a book publisher isn’t a guarantee; there are a lot of requirements to just get in the door. I wanted to keep it climber built, plus it's half photo book, half story book so it might be tough to get in front of a conventional publisher. In the end, I chose to self publish. It meant I could create it exactly how I wanted and keep costs low (yay, more money for the Access Fund!) by not having to buy large quantities of books that would just sit in my garage. Also, if the project flopped, I wasn’t out much money.
I’m Just Not a Writer:
I’m a photographer, not a writer. I can write but well enough to sell something. That is a whole other beast and it scared me. So I reached out to a connection in the climbing community, Julie Ellison of Climbing Magazine. I knew she was a rockstar editor, photographer, and writer. I gave her some insight into what I was working on and asked if she wanted to help. She was in. This was such a pivotal moment for the book and gave me confidence to pursue it. She helped with the interview questions, reached out to most of the athletes in the book, and brought on James Lucas to tackle the writing you see in the book.
Help me!...But, I Can’t Pay You:
The next step was gathering people. This is where the magic of the book really came together for me. One of the hardest tasks I had was to ask people to basically work for free and asking fellow photographers to give me photos to print and publish without paying them is awful. As is asking climbers to take time to answer interview questions from a no name climbing photographer in Portland for a book that doesn’t exist. The magical part though, and what I love about our climbing community, is that everyone understood the concept and believed in its mission. Hard core climbers and photographers donated time, products and services to create something I think is amazing. All to promote climbing conservation and the Access Fund.
Design and Printing:
The design and printing stage was where I had the least knowledge. Fortunately, I had the impeccably professional and talented Alton Richardson to handle it and take care of it. I gave Alton a little guidance about what I was looking for with the design and he nailed the look and feel you see in the final book first pass. He’s a rockstar. The printing was pretty easy; because I self published, I opted for a print on demand service for photo books that has worked really well. It's dead simple and gives me the flexibility to print when there are orders vs. buying a thousand copies at a time.
And that was it! We Are: Smith Rock was born! I hope you’ve gotten a sense of the project and that it inspires you to climb more and help protect the places we have an impact on!
Check out the website at www.wearesmithrock.com, sign up for the newsletter for updates, buy a book at your local Planet Granite or on the site, and share it with your friends on social media.
Early this month, our PG climbing teams attended USA Climbing’s Bouldering Divisionals and in hopes of qualifying for nationals. And they rocked it. 21 of our climbing team kids made top 10 in their category and 9 have been invited to nationals!
Divisional Results for Our Team:
What is Passport to Fitness? Basically, take fitness and yoga classes and win prizes. It is as simple as that. Well - maybe not that simple; there are some things you should know:
Why Passport to Fitness?
Similar to a travel passport, Passport to Fitness has a goal of giving you new experiences. Find a class or discipline that you love so you can find your long-term motivation and continue to live an active and healthy lifestyle.
What do I do?
Starting Feb. 1st grab a Passport to Fitness Postcard from your gym's front desk staff. Pick classes from the card that you would like to try or that you already know you love and go participate! Get your instructor to sign off on the class you took and then pick the next class you want to try! Don't worry if you start late - classes are offered at least once a week so even if you get started a bit later, you still have plenty of time to get raffle tickets!
What do I get?
For each row that you completely fill out (take all three classes on that row), you will get one raffle ticket; two rows = two raffle tickets (one for each row), etc. Get a bonus if you go to 12 classes and fill out the card completely! For a fully filled out card, you get double the chances of winning awesome prizes! So to break it down:
- 1 row = 1 ticket
- 2 rows = 2 tickets
- 3 rows = 3 tickets
- 4 rows = 4 tickets + 4 ticket bonus = 8 tickets total
How do I win the raffle?
Turn in your card with your name and email (we need your email to notify you if you win) clearly legible by closing on Mar. 6th. Once we have everyone's card, we will draw for winners on Mar. 10th. Check PG social media or your email on the 10th to see if you won! Once your name has been announced, head to the gym where your name was announced and pick up your prize!
What do I get if I win?
Bay Area: In the Bay, we have none other than prAna sponsoring this event. They have generously donated tops, bottoms (including Mojo shorts!), yoga mats, and accessories for our winners! Each gym has their own prizes so there are plenty of chances to win!
Portland: Portland is being sponsored by North Lake Physical Therapy. All participants in Portland's Passport to Fitness are eligible for a free musculoskeletal examination (more information below). For the PDX raffle, you can win PG swag, a session with a personal trainer, or gift cards!
To redeem your free PDX musculoskeletal exam: Meet with North Lakes’ Vince Blaney, MSPT when he is in the gym every Monday after our 5:30pm F10 class. If you miss him, you can schedule an appointment for later, just be sure to bring in your passport card! If you’re unable to receive your evaluation during the month of February, you’ll receive a voucher for one free musculoskeletal evaluation when you turn your Passport to Fitness card in at the end of the month!
North Lake Physical Therapy
1622 NW 15th Ave
Portland, OR 97209
Phone: (503) 222-4640
If you follow the American Alpine Club on Instagram (@americanalpine), you might get a weird sensation that you recognize the pictures that you see next week. There is a reason for that – if you have ever bouldered at PG Sunnyvale, you are probably familiar with where they were taken!
About a year ago, PG Sunnyvale was approached by member Andrea Laue about doing a series on our youth climbing team and we were more than happy to help out! Since then, Andrea has been collaborating with the coaches and climbers to learn more about these amazing athletes. Our teams are so passionate; we are stoked that people get a peek into how much work they put into it.
Starting January 8, Andrea (on Instagram as @andrealaue) will be taking over the American Alpine Club’s Instagram and showcasing her series on Youth Climbers, many of whom she worked with at PG Sunnyvale. The series will build a narrative around individual climbers and what it is like to be a competitive youth climber.
We asked Andrea a few questions about the project leading up to the takeover:
Can you give a little bit of background on yourself and this series?
I'm a documentary photographer by vocation and a climber, backpacker, snowshoer, and general outdoor enthusiast by avocation. Except for a brief stint in Seattle, I've lived in the SF Bay Area for 10+ years, and the Eastern Sierra feels like home to me. My husband Brian and I climb moderate alpine trad routes and backpack as much as possible. The Hulk is our big goal for 2017!
For this series: Put most simply, I wondered what it was like to be on a climbing team as a youth. Last year, I photographed several "open" comps at Bay Area gyms. The youth competitors impressed me most at those events. I was very active in youth team sports, and that experience had a big influence on me. Last winter, I approached Planet Granite’s Team about doing a documentary project about a season as a youth climber and the gym, athletes, and parents welcomed me into the community.
What are you hoping to show in your takeover for AAC?
There's so much more to the comps than the climbs themselves. Athletes spend minutes to hours in isolation before they climb. Between climbs they are led around the gym with their backs to the walls and faces to the crowd. They sit, waiting their turn, while the spectators cheer and gasp in reaction to other performances. All the while, the clock runs, timing their efforts and their breaks. Then they are called. They turn toward the wall, and they climb on command.
It's intense. It's easy to see the strength in the limbs of these kids, but the core of their strength lies in their minds and in their hearts. It's impressive.
What have you enjoyed most about your work in this series?
Getting to know the athletes. At first I was simply amazed by how good they are. Now I'm impressed by the conversations I have with them. I admire how they support one another, regardless of relative skill.
Also, they crack me up!
Photo Credit: Andrea Laue
Most climbers have a bit of a gear nerd streak – embarking on quests to find our holy grail of climbing shoes, chalk, rope, carabiners, clothes – basically, anything and everything we use when we climb. Our staff is no different; we might even have some of the largest gear lovers out there! We LOVE to share our knowledge, help out new climbers, and opine about what gear we think is best.
Gear is very personal and there are so many good brands and products on the market that choosing gear can be a long process. Our gym shops are stocked with brands and products that we have tested and that we believe in but even though we have a lot of brands, there is not a one size fits all solution. Test things out, talk to our staff about your needs, and check out our What’s In Your Bag videos where our staff shows you what they use when they climb.
It is the holiday season and that means the Planet Granite Gear Shops are celebrating Seven+ Weeks of Sales!
Each week, we are offering 20% off different items. Stock up on gifts for your friends and family or buy yourself something!
We are in the second to last week of sales! That means packs are now 20% off*! It is almost always easier to carry your gear if you have the right pack to do it with so come check out our selection, chat with our staff, and see what pack will work best for you and your gear! Packs are on sale from Dec. 12 - Dec. 18; some exclusions apply and sale is limited to supplies on hand.
We are excited to announce the newest page on planetgranite.com - the Outdoor Climbing Access Page!
This is an ongoing effort centered around bringing information about outdoor climbing areas to our community. According to the Access Fund, almost 1 in 5 outdoor climbing areas are threatened by an access issue. These issues range from crags being on private land to areas restricting climbing or not allowing it at all. As a climber, it is sometimes hard to know whether a spot is open or not. Our goal is to help inform our community about issues, rules, and etiquette surrounding their favorite areas. Additionally, we want to ensure that local community efforts that work to keep areas accessible are highlighted as it can take a lot of time, effort, and money to keep these spots open. It is our hope that through education we can help keep outdoor climbing accessible for years to come.
Have an outdoor climbing area you would like to see included? Visit our page and submit a form!
Read on for our official press release.