1-WarriorsWaylogo -145 In this guest post, Warrior’s Way trainer Jeff Lodas introduces us to the mental training techniques utilized in the Falling & Commitment Clinic.

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SATURDAY 4/5 @PG San Francisco   

SUNDAY 4/6 @PG Sunnyvale  

MONDAY 4/7 @PG San Francisco



One of the key points in mental training is the use of attention.

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Arno resting on the FA of Gilgamesh in Obed, TN.

Even during a simple task, such as washing the dishes, we often hurry through, focused on the end result, paying little attention to the details of the process.

In the arguably more complex task of rock climbing, the outcomes (and our experience of them) are strongly influenced by our ability to both focus one hundred percent on our process during the task at hand, and to effectively shift our attention to and from tasks.

From the Warrior’s Way blog:

“Having an end result approach contracts our attention and how we physically climb.  Our breathing becomes shallow or we hold our breath; we get tunnel vision and miss possible holds we could use; we create unnecessary tension in our muscles; we make high steps.

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Jeff at the crux of Cloud Tower in Red Rocks, NV.

We need to shift to a process approach that creates many micro moments. We accomplish this by physically changing how we climb…

A core objective of the Warrior’s Way training is to change students’ awareness about stress and to shift their attention from end results to processes. This shift allows students to begin catching the mind when it manifests these tendencies.”

While doing the dishes, it may not seem to much matter whether we breathe properly, have a relaxed posture, or are open to all the details of our visual field.

While climbing, however, these things do seem to matter, even to the point of becoming a question of life-and-death.  

On the rock, the impeccable use of attention helps us not only to climb harder and safer, but also to truly enjoy the journey.

– In the 4 hour Falling & Commitment Clinic you’ll learn how to –

  • Fall safely
  • Give a dynamic (cushioned) belay
  • Improve focus
  • Create flow and momentum
  • Deal with climbing stress
  • Commit more deliberately
  • Distinguish between no- and yes-fall zones
  • Make appropriate risk decisions
  • Improve body and mind awareness
  • Rest effectively
  • Improve breathing
  • Reduce fear

*If the Planet Granite clinics are full, there are more chances to work with Jeff Lodas!

  • Owens River Gorge, CA: April 26-27 and May 3-4
  • Vantage, WA: May 10 and May 11
  • Smith Rock, OR: May 24-25

*Click HERE for the event schedule.*