SPRING TRAINING 4×4’S with Abbey

 This exercise focuses on the elusive combo of power-endurance. 

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TIME: 30-45 minutes
DIFFICULTY:  All levels
EQUIPMENT: Climbing shoes, chalk and a clock
FOCUS: Strength, Power-Endurance


INTRO:  *We like this WOW because it’s fast, fun, and effective!

*It can be done in a short amount of time, and if you work hard you can get great results.

*It increases your ability to do powerful moves and it also increases your ability to do several powerful moves consecutively, so it can improve your bouldering and sport climbing abilities.


STEP 1.  Choose 4 boulder problems you have already done, can send consistently, and are at or close to your limit. If you’re a V4 climber who can sometimes send a V5, start with four V4’s.

STEP 2.  Climb the first problem, wait 10 seconds, climb the second, wait 10 seconds, etc. until your first “circuit” of 4 problems is completed.

STEP 3.  Rest 5 minutes.

STEP 4.  Climb the same four problems again with 15 seconds rest in between.

STEP 5.  Repeat until you have done 4 sets of the 4 problems. And you’re done!


– Warm up thoroughly!

Doing this with a friend or two can help you stay motivated, move quickly, and hold you to your plan of attack. If you alternate your sets and rests, you can spot your climber and they can spot you.

– In the midst of your sets, don’t forget to keep moving! Resting too long defeats the purpose.

Generally you want to select problems on steep-to-overhanging walls. The red wall in PGSF is perfect.

These SHOULD get tough to send by the 3rd or 4th set! If you’re completing all the problems in one go after the 3rd/4th set, then up the difficulty of the climbs.

The point is to be doing 6-8 moves per problem, so if you’re getting shut down after a couple moves choose a different problem. If it takes a couple go’s to complete a problem, that’s good.

–  Choose climbs that are all in the same vicinity to minimize the rest between go’s and prevent having to run around to your next climb.

– After a couple weeks of doing these once a week, you might just start to see some notable gains in strength! Be prepared to adjust which problems you do each week. You will be feeling stronger, and changing it up keeps the workout from being too repetitive.


– Increase difficulty by choosing more difficult problems, steeper terrain, and/or adding one or two more sets to make it a 4×5 or 4×6!

– Decrease difficulty by taking down the grade a notch, choosing climbs with a lower angle, etc.

– Have a couple of extra problems on the lower and higher end of your spectrum in mind in case you need to make any quick adjustments mid-workout. You want to have a solid plan before you begin to minimize lag-time between problems.


ABOUT ABBEY ~ Abbey’s climbing journey began when she first moved to San Francisco from the East coast in 2007. Her passion for climbing and outdoor adventures soon took over her life and lead her to Planet Granite! After spending a year climbing and skiing all over North Lake Tahoe she returned to SF extra stoked to train hard, play on rock whenever possible, and share her love for climbing with the PG community. Biking and making music account for most of the other joys in her life.


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IMPORTANT: Climbing and climbing training, such as the exercises in the WOW, are inherently dangerous activities.  Participation in these exercises is done at your own risk.  If you have any injuries, we recommend you do not attempt a WOW.  If you have any concerns about your abilities or the exercises, consult a qualified medical practitioner or athletic trainer. Before using the fitness area, equipment, classes or any other training at Planet Granite, it is your responsibility to read and understand the posted gym rules and Safety Guidelines found here: